WADA rating: 60+26.5= 86+ pts
QPI: 8 ($40 for 3 course set lunch, $75 for 6 course set dinner)
WFI: B ($20 per bot, good stemware, staff are wine-adept)
Tasted twice in Apr 2008 - once for bourgogne minor appellation dinner , the second for DBF's birthday!
A relatively new restaurant but this is no lightweight. Wood (as this restaurant's name suggest)features in almost all the food here. From cherry chips used to smoke the scallops or oak used to fire the oven (heard that the oven is never completely extinguished), the nuances of wood are unmistakable in executive chef Jake Klein's american guy-marries-asian gal-meets-french mistress-type fusion cuisine.
What’s Hot?
Walnut Grilled Margaret Duck Breast
Complex aromas....if this was smelt blind...you most prob would have difficulty deciding if it was fish, fowl or meat but you will definitely know that you want to have it...ALL of it.V sexy smells.The body is so tender that it seems to melt away with a downstroke of your knife. The half crisp skin hangin on to the sliced duck breast perfectly gels the flavours of the dish together. The harmony of the slightly cassis-sweet sauce paired with the smoky flavours of the duck is undeniably *muackz*. This duck shouts out for a red Burgundy Cote-de-Nuit...i m thinking Vosne-Romanee.
Smoked Foie Gras Pizza with Persimmon
Again smokey woody flavours from the wood fired crust ....but perfectly conquered by strong cloying "durian-intense" opulent aromas of the Foie Gras. This is like a Foie Gras 101 module captured in one pizza. Like durians or pinots, you either like it or you don't because the smell and taste of rich Foie Gras is just overwhelming. ..but well I LOVE IT! In addition, the dessert-wine-like sweetness of the persimmon pieces as well as the sweet cassis sauce drizzled all over the pizza has the effect of harmonising the intense flavours from the foie gras. There is a lingering finish which is also slightly oily and schweet...
Warm Cherry Wood Smoked Scallops with Sweet Corn Puree
Not big on the aromas but the flavours are intriguing . The smokey flavours of the cherry wood masks the seafoodness of the scallops. It could pass off with flavours of poultry or even a meat if not for the spongy "Q"ness that gives it away. The sweet corn puree gives the scallops an even more surreal feel, absolutely sweet kingdom in every bite but could turn off some with its fakey like schweetness. The seafoodness does seem to show in the aftertaste though.
Cedar Plank Roasted Salmon with Shitake and Enoki Truffle glaze
The first time I had this at the bourgone minor appellation dinner organised by Uncle L, the truffles had hit my nostrils even before the dish was served in front of me. Big big wild mushroomy aromas .... especially the truffles which were intoxicating! A pity it drowned the minor appellation bourgone I was having then. The salmon is perfectly grilled to a flaky texture but had some of those raw sushi pinkish texture in the middle. Its like those medium rare beef steaks . Beautiful! The palate is dominated by the shitake mushrooms, making the dish very japanese / chinese on the taste although the truffle gave it a frenchy appeal. The aftertaste showed a lingering flavour of the cedar wood, almost like hitting your throat with a plank of wood. A good fusion.
Black Cod (can't remember the full name)
Very tasty, I remember the "dao-you" like flavours ... the cod melts like butter. Feel as a very simple dish but once you have the cod, there is a myriad of fresh sea, the slight presence of wood (i think...or it cld be the aftertaste from the other oaked dishes before) , the pleasant salty sourishness of soy and some scallop-like sweetness.
Lavender Chocolate Ice-Cream with Sea-Salt
Another wonderful creation displaying the exciting combinations of flavours and smells so evident in many of the dishes here. Aromatheraphy food... lavendar oils flood the nose. The bitter sweet chocolate is made exciting by the bits of sea salt that is buried within. Its like those super sour candy with fruit filled centers but in reverse....sweet sweet sweet and suddenly SALTYy.... then sweet sweet SALtyyy... again. A dessert that teases.
What's Not?
There was another fish dish that wasn't quite outstanding (so much so that I can't even remember it). Maybe its cos every dish seemed to be unqiue in its presenation on the palate that our expectations were rising every moment. The beef we had was flavourful but a little dry and there were some complaints of over-saltiness.
Comments
Service was good but not up to a mark of a top tier restaurant... assuming they are targeting the big league. Serving staff needs to be more proactive and focused . Our server for DBF's bdae was v distracted..could be by my gd looks or the confounding smoky wood smells seaping out from the kitchen : ) Try this now! as being the new kid on the block the chef is still going all out to impress and establish its reputation.
Wine Pairings Done:
Minor Appellation Bourgogne
Too many tasted and not many memorable. It could be due to the strong flavours of the food that made it more diifficult for these minor appellation to shine through. However, among those tasted, the highest rated / commended by many were a 2004 Marsanny White- Domaine Fougeray de Beauclair and 2002 Marsannay Red- Joseph roty Clos Dejen (think my spelling is wrong). The white had beautiful nuances of asparagus and honey.
2007 Bird In Hand Pinot Rose, Adelaide Hills
WADA rated 76pts - Tasted at DBF's bdae
Cherry red. Cherry and strawberries on the nose. Unripe fruits with a sour edge. Was overwhelmed by the food.
2000 Katnook Odyssey Cabernet Sauvignon, Coonawara (JO87, JH94) WADA rated 86pts - Tasted at DBF's bdae
Dark brooding black. Strong oak witth dark fruits trying to burst thru. Same situation on the palate. Its like trying to find the black / blueberry bush in a dense forest but when you do find this bush (not George), it is overgrown with full, ripe dark berries. It really tastes extremely young and bright... almost a baby... good tannins and firm acidity will definitely carry this wine thru for another 3-5 years at least. It carries perfectly with the heavily wooded food here.
Pairing SuggestionsThe cuisine is unique and intense. Definitely shouts out for something rhone , a new world shiraz or cab sau. The minor appellation bourgogne wines we had were overwhelmed, except maybe for the chards that held up better with the scallops and a mousse-like starter given with compliments from the chef.
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