Sunday, June 1, 2008

Buono (75p)

27 Lichfield Road, Serangoon Garden Estate, Tel: 6733 5646
Operating Hours: Mon-Sat: 12noon - 2.30pm (Lunch) 6.00pm - 10.30pm (Dinner)Sun: 10.00am - 2.30pm (Lunch)6.00pm - 10.30pm (Dinner)

WADA rating: (50 + 25) = 75 pts
QPI: 7+ ($20-$35 per pax for a main and side)
WFI: A (Free corkage, better than average stemware, very affordable wine list)
Tasted once for a weekday lunch.

We had recently read many reviews about this new kid on the block (my block to be exact) and we had tried on numerous times to locate this ang moh (italiano) chef cooking up a storm in the heartlands. Finally, on one lazy weekday noon, DBF & I (both on leave…officially!) finally found it tucked away in a very industrious corner of sgn gardens, where I have never (in my 10 years living in the area) ever ventured to before.

What's Good

Risotto Pescatore

A risotto bearing very similar qualities to a Spanish seafood paella but minus the saffron and add sweet sour tomato puree, which really makes this dish very appetizing. Delicate aromas of ocean waters splashed around the refreshing smells of the steamed risotto rice. The natural sweetness from the seafood – big prawns, squid, mussels and clams, are very well integrated with the alienly-huge grains of rice, which seems bloated up from excessive soaking up of the seafood juices. I especially love to slurp the tomato-red-stained risotto that have been lodged tightly inside the clam/ mussel shells. The purity of the seafood flavours are not overwhelmed by the sauce at all. However, the prawns were slightly off fresh and had a “mud” taste.

Penne Andrea

A seemingly simple looking dish of penne tossed in an orange cream sauce with slices of cured sausage slices, this is an elegant dish. Delicate aromas and flavours of saffron permeate through the hollow “trunk” of the penne …which is glazed with buttery creamy sauce. Some might find this too buttery but I can imagine it will go perfectly with some white Bourgogne. They are quite generous with the saffron as can be seen from the hue of orange in the sauce as well as the thin stalks of saffron littered over the penne. Could use a lil more salt though…in general, very good but not great yet.

What's Not

So far, we have only tried two mains and there have been only minor gripes with the food. First impressions from the first visit is good.

Comments

Hard to locate but this gem is worth searching out for. The neighbouring units along the same stretch of shophouses consists of a splattering of haphazard workshops, which seems to accentuate the uniqueness of this establishment. I really appreciate the fact that this is one of the few restaurants offering authentic high quality Italian food for a fair price that is located out of town….AND right at my doorstep! What is even more super is that they have free corkage! (which is the only good Italian restaurant that does so as far I am aware of )
I will definitely be patronising this place more often…provided I am able to even get a table….heard reservations are required from thu-sun nights.

Wine Pairings Done

2005 Durfort Viviens, Margaux, 2nd Growth (WS92, JR 15.75/20)
WADA rated 83+pts
Tasted at the UGC 2005 review and didn’t like it at all…with very harsh tannins dominating. However, on re-tasting this after bottle-decanting overnight…this turned out much much better. The hard tannins were now smooth and velvety with lots of milk chocolate nuances intermixed with crushed dark morello cherries. The elegance pairs well with both the risotto and penne (even though it was a cream based sauce). I am glad I re-tasted because this just shows how prodigious the 05 bordeaux vintage is going to be given some time in the cellar. I definitely look forward to re-tasting all the 05s in 5 years time!

Wine Pairing Suggestions

Had a chat with Mr ang moh chef, who exudes a serious no-nonsense “Godfather” aura, and tried to offer him a glass of Dufort Viviens… BUT lo and behold!...this Italian doesn’t drink! ...an abnormality to say the least. Ma Ma Mia! Pa Pa Doom! However, he does boast an exciting AND affordable wine list ranging from $30 to $100. I am definitely going to try some of his vino next time round.
In general, I had a quick look at his food menu and basically there is a wide range of food pairings to go with any wine varietal so do not fret over what to bring. Out of respect, do try to drink a Brunello or a Chianti.

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